If you are looking for the perfect winter getaway from the bright lights of Tokyo, look no further than the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture. While many travelers visit Nikko as a rushed day trip, staying overnight allows you to push deeper into the mountains to find the hidden gem of Yunishigawa Onsen.

From shimmering UNESCO World Heritage shrines to soaking in steaming onsens while snow falls around you, this itinerary is the ultimate overnight escape.

Where to Stay: Honke Bankyu Ryokan

Since this is an overnight trip, choosing the right base is essential. For an authentic, historic experience, I recommend staying at Honke Bankyu.

Founded in 1666 by descendants of the Taira clan, this ryokan is a destination in itself. You’ll find a historic bridge on the property, stunning riverside views, and incredible outdoor onsens. The highlight is the traditional kaiseki dinner, where you gather around a sunken hearth (irori) to enjoy local delicacies. It is the perfect, cozy end to a winter day of exploring.

This ryokan has stunning onsens, morning coffee with views of the river, and incredible dinner and breakfast. I would come back all the way to spend two nights her and disconnect in the mountains.

Getting to Tokyo to Nikko (and back)

The most efficient way to reach Nikko is via the Tobu Railway from Tobu Asakusa Station.

• The Trains: You have a few great options, including the classic SPACIA (Kegon), the sleek Revaty, and the brand-new, luxury SPACIA X.
• Book in Advance: These trains—especially the luxury “SPACIA X” and the private compartments—sell out quickly. You should book your limited express tickets as soon as they become available (typically one month in advance) on the Tobu Railway website.
• The Return: Don’t forget to book your return journey from Tobu Nikko back to Tokyo ahead of time as well!

Getting to Yunishigawa Onsen

After exploring Nikko, you’ll head deeper into the alpine region.

• The Train: Take the train from Tobu Nikko Station to Shimo-Imaichi Station, then transfer to the Yagan Railway bound for Yunishigawa-Onsen Station. If you want to take a limited express train for this leg, book that ticket separately for your specific time, as these also sell out.
• The Bus: Once you arrive at Yunishigawa-Onsen Station, you will take the local bus (often the Honke Bankyu shuttle) to the ryokan. There are only a few services, so timing is everything.

Departing from Yunishigawa Onsen Station:

13:50 | 15:15 | 15:45 | 17:15 (Last bus)

Return trip from Honke Bankyu Ryokan:

9:16 | 10:01 | 10:51

Getting Around Nikko (Buses & Timetables)

Once you arrive at Tobu Nikko Station, the bus is your best way for reaching the shrine district.

• Finding Timetables: Head straight to the Tobu Nikko Station Tourist Information Center. They have printed English timetables and digital displays showing exactly when the next “World Heritage Loop Bus” or “Yumoto Onsen” bus departs.
• How to Pay:
  • IC Cards: You can use your Suica or Pasmo! Just tap the reader when you board and tap again when you exit.
  • Nikko Pass: If you have a digital or physical Nikko Pass, simply show the dated side of the pass to the driver as you get off.
  • Cash: If you don’t have a card, take a numbered ticket when you board and pay the corresponding fare in the box next to the driver when you exit.

Morning: Shrines and Sacred Bridges

Once you arrive at Tobu Nikko Station, hop on the local bus toward the shrine district.

Shinkyo Bridge

Your first stop should be the iconic Shinkyo Bridge. In December, the contrast of the bright red wood against the dark river stones and the white snow is breathtaking. You can pay to enter and go onto the bridge, but I don’t think you really need to. You can view the bridge and the river from outside the gates.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Walk uphill into the forest to explore Nikko’s spiritual heart. I highly recommend purchasing tickets in advance – the line for getting into the shrine gets really long. We just wandered around here – but it would have been nice to have a guided tour since the grounds are so big and there is so much to see!

• Toshogu Shrine: The final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Spend 60–90 minutes here to see the “See No Evil” monkeys and the Yomeimon Gate
• Futarasan Shrine: A short 5–10 minute walk away; it’s a quick, peaceful visit dedicated to the mountain gods.
• Rinno-ji Temple: End your morning here. The main hall is massive and indoors—perfect for warming up while admiring the three giant gold-leaf statues of Buddha.

Lunch: Gluten-Free in Nikko

After a morning of walking, head back toward the town center for a cozy lunch.

If you are looking for a fantastic gluten-free meal, we highly recommend Gyoza no Umechan. They made me amazing GF ramen and a delicious curry! It was such a treat to find safe, warm comfort food in the mountains.

While we didn’t eat at these other options, they also look like great, warm indoor spots for winter:

• Nikko Coffee: A cozy atmosphere in a renovated historic building.
• Kanaya Bakery Café: A warm, historic staple near the station.

Local Sake

Before you hop on the train to the onsen, make sure to stop by Hinoya Liquor Store. It’s a fantastic place to buy local sake. The staff are knowledgeable, and bringing a bottle of high-quality Tochigi sake back to your ryokan room is the perfect way to enjoy a winter night.

Head to Honke Bankyu:

After lunch, head straight to Honke Bankyu to maximize your time. You won’t want to be rushed—this property is meant to be savored.

Yunishigawa Onsen is a quiet, snow-covered haven tucked into a deep valley. The experience here is all about the “slow life.” Spend your afternoon soaking in the riverside outdoor baths, crossing the ryokan’s private wooden bridge, and enjoying the stillness of the Japanese Alps. It is the ultimate way to disconnect and immerse yourself in 350 years of history.

Any comments, ideas, or suggestions – leave a comment below!